What are active skincare ingredients?

An active ingredient in skincare is an ingredient that is biologically active, which means it influences your skin. Active ingredients should deliver benefits promised by the label on your jar of cream or bottle of serum, for instance. Some products with active ingredients can be purchased over the counter while others are available by prescription only.¹ Below are some examples of skincare ingredients you may have come across in topical products (products you apply to your skin).

Retinoids

Also known as nicotinamide, niacinamide is derived from vitamin B3. It is being increasingly studied for treating different skin conditions, including photoageing.^6,7 It has also been shown to improve fine lines and wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.⁶

Niacinamide

Topical retinoids are derived from vitamin A.  They can be used to treat a range of skin conditions, including sun damage (photoageing). Skincare products containing retinoids can come in different forms such as creams, lotions, gels and serums.² Retinoids work by helping to increase skin regeneration and boost collagen production.^3,4 (Collagen is a key component of the skin, which provides strength and elasticity to the skin.) Retinoids have been shown to help reduce the signs of sun damage, such as fine wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, and improve skin texture.^2,5 Higher-strength products are generally only available with a prescription from a GP or dermatologist. A drawback of retinoids is that they may cause skin irritation and sun sensitivity. To minimise these effects, the product is usually applied at night and a sunscreen used in the daytime.² Some topical retinoids are contraindicated (should not be used) in pregnancy.^2,4

Vitamin C

Vitamin C or ascorbic acid is a popular skincare ingredient. However, just because an off-the-shelf product has vitamin C doesn’t mean it will deliver its benefits to your skin. This is because vitamin C is highly unstable when exposed to heat, light or air. Also, some products may have too low a concentration of vitamin C or have a form of vitamin C that cannot be easily absorbed by your skin.^5,8 In an effective formulation though, vitamin C may help with photoageing through stimulating skin repair. Vitamin C is also an antioxidant so it can help to mop up free radicals, which are skin-damaging chemicals triggered by things like sunlight and pollution.⁸

Vitamin E

Vitamin E, also known as alpha tocopherol, is widely used in skincare products, sometimes in combination with vitamin C. It is also an antioxidant and works with vitamin C to reduce breakdown of collagen.⁵ However, there is still a lack of research on the dose and benefit of vitamin E in skincare.⁹

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in your skin as well as your joints and eyes. One of its roles in the skin is to provide hydration. However, through normal ageing and photoageing, the body’s store of hyaluronic acid gradually reduces.¹⁰ Some topical skincare products now tout their use of hyaluronic acid to increase skin hydration. However, it is likely that topical hyaluronic acid can provide hydration only on a surface level rather than deep within the skin.¹¹

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs are frequently referred to as “fruit acids” as many are derived from natural fruit sources. Examples of AHAs are glycolic acid from sugarcane, lactic acid from milk, citric acid from citrus fruits, and tartaric acid from grapes.^5,7 AHAs may help with improving the signs of photoageing. They work by encouraging exfoliation – the process of shedding of skin cells from the outer layer of the skin to be replaced by fresh skin cells.¹² AHAs can be found in facial peels, which involves application for a few minutes before washing off,  and in leave-on products such as serums. There are different strengths of AHAs: generally, higher-strength products are only available through health professionals while lower-strength products may be found off the shelf.¹²

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)

Like AHAs, BHAs also encourage skin exfoliation. The most well-known BHA is salicylic acid, which can be found in products to unclog pores in people with oily skin, and to treat acne.^5,7,13

Poly hydroxy acid (PHAs)

PHAs are considered a new generation of AHAs. Examples of PHAs are lactobionic acid, galactose, and gluconic acid. As with AHAs, PHAs are also used to improve photoageing signs; however, they are thought to be gentler than AHAs so may be more suitable for people with sensitive skin.⁷

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is a skin lightening agent used to improve hyperpigmentation and melasma (dark patches on the face usually triggered by hormonal changes or sun exposure). Hydroquinone works by reducing the production of melanin, which is the main skin pigment.¹⁴ Depending on the strength, hydroquinone can be found in off-the-shelf or prescription products.

Which skincare ingredients are right for me?

There are many ingredients found in skincare, so it can be hard to know which work, and which are right for you. When considering changing your skincare, don’t buy into the hype about the latest must-have product.Instead, get qualified advice about which skincare ingredients may help with your skin concerns.

References

• Therapeutic Goods Administration. Ingredient basics. https://www.tga.gov.au/how-we-regulate/ingredients-and-scheduling-medicines-and-chemicals/ingredients-therapeutic-goods/ingredient-basics (accessed August 2024).
• DermNet. Topical retinoids. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-retinoids (accessed August 2024).
• Armour K. Cosmeceuticals to address cutaneous photoageing. Opin Prog Cosmet Dermatol 2022;2(1):8-12.
• Milosheka D, Roškar R. Use of retinoids in topical antiaging treatments: A focused review of clinical evidence for conventional and nanoformulations. Adv Ther 2022;39(12):5351-75.
• Australasian College of Dermatologists. Cosmeceuticals. https://www.dermcoll.edu.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Cosmeceuticals-A-Z-of-Skin.pdf (accessed August 2024).
• DermNet. Nicotinamide. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/nicotinamide (accessed August 2024).
• Talakoub L et al. Antiaging cosmeceuticals. In book: International textbook of aesthetic surgery. Springer Berlin Heidelberg 2016.
• DermNet. Topical vitamin C. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-vitamin-c (accessed August 2024).
• Keen MA, Hassan I. Vitamin E in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J 2016; 7(4): 311–315.
• DermNet. Hyaluronic acid implant. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/hyaluronic-acid-implant (accessed August 2024).
• Harvard Health Publishing. The hype on hyaluronic acid. https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/the-hype-on-hyaluronic-acid-2020012318653 (accessed August 2024).
• DermNet. Alpha hydroxy acid facial treatments. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/alpha-hydroxy-acid-facial-treatments (accessed August 2024).
• DermNet. Salicylic acid. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/salicylic-acid (accessed August 2024).
• DermNet. Hydroquinone. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/hydroquinone (accessed August 2024).